I heard about the act of skin lightening a couple years ago (on the Tyra Show, please withhold judgement) and it really struck a nerve with me.
This is a great video to introduce the topic:
I decided to write my paper on this topic, since it ties in with some of the topics discussed-white privilege, colorism and colonialism. Whiteness has shown itself to be something that is valued, and evidently commoditised, as illustrated with the prevalence of skin lightening. The act of skin lightening is growing fastest among educated, young, urban women in the global south. It is almost like skin bleaching is as popular as keeping up with fashion trends in some areas. One study found “that 25 percent of women in Bamaki, Mali; 35 percent in Pretoria, South Africa; and 52 percent in Dakar, Senegal, use skin lighteners, as do an astonishing 77 percent of women traders in Lagos, Nigeria” (Glenn 7). It is not a new phenomena, as references of African American women using powders and skin bleaches appeared in the Black press as early as the 1850s. (Glenn 8).
The act of skin lightening directly relates to class topics, and the term colorism, which is an “enduring belief that skin color reflects inherent qualities or characteristics” (Hartigan 208). Colorism makes our brains, which are shaped by culture and history “create intricate caste hierarchies that privilege those who are physically and culturally whiter and punish those who are darker” (Vedantam 2010). It can lead people to extreme measures, as can be proved with a look into the skin lightening business. This industry promotes a ‘white is right’ ideology, and encourages those who are not fair skinned to make themselves that way, through whatever means necessary. I would say the growing use of skin lightening products testifies to the increasing importance of colorism in everyday life. While it may not always be conscious, it can still result in some very serious consequences. Light skin “operates as a form of symbolic capital, one that is especially critical for women because of the connection between skin tone and attractiveness and desirability” (Glenn 2). Women are judged heavily on the basis of their appearance, and thus the skin lightening market is directed towards them.
There are several studies which discuss the different privledges that come along with race. For example, Margaret Hunter studies colorism among African and Mexican Americans. She makes the point that “resources are allocated unequally to light-and dark-skinned women and beauty is constructed to elevate the status of light-skinned black and Mexican Americans who most closely resemble whites” (Hartigan 162). She states that the values associated with physical features set the precedent for the stratification among skin colors. The features associated with white people, such as light skin, straight hair and straight noses indicate beauty, rationality and civility; while dark skin, kinky hair and big noses, the features associated with Africans or Indians seem to represent ugliness, savagery and irrationality. (Hartigan163). Hunter’s study indicated how deep our ideas of racial conditioning are, and show the racial meanings that are placed upon physical features.
There is serious cause for worry among people using the products. The creams and products used for bleaching are extremely harmful to the skin, as they often include mercury, which is highly toxic and can cause kidney disease and neurological damage. They also include hydroquinone, which suppresses melanin but can be fatal in large concentrations. It can also be a mutagenic, which causes cancer. Many experience severe acne, wrinkles and marks due to the creams.
I am wondering what everyone thinks about skin lightening and how popular it has become? Is this due to colonialism, and the fact that whiteness has been attached to the idea of privilege and a ‘white is right’ ideology? Any comments on the video? You would think with the dozens of positive African American role models present in our society, that young women wouldn’t find the need to whiten their skin, but it is still taking place in alarming numbers.
Thoughts?
-Alex Denis
Glenn, Evelyn N. “Yearning for Lightness: Transnational Circuits in the Marketing and Consumption of Skin Lighteners.” Gender and Society, 22:3, 281-302.
Vedantam, Shankar. “Shades of Prejudice.” The New York Times. 18 January 2010. Web. 2 November 2010.
I have had this discussion before and come across this concept many times. It originally came up in a another anthropology class, a student mentioned on a recent trip to Thailand, Cambodia and S.Korea that they were shocked at the amount of skin lightening creams. They were searching for moisturizer but could not find any that didn't have bleach in. They were most shocked though at the numerous skin lightening creams for babies. We discussed it a lot, and the idea of mothers wanting to 'help' their children, by trying to give them a better change in life (being lighter equals greater success).
ReplyDeleteI think in many areas of the world the lightening is related to colonialism, although as Hartigan mentions; hierarchies of preference in regards to lighter skin and class ideas already exited within many cultures.
As you said, there are of course now 'positve african american role models' yet within the back communities and latino communities there exists an internal hierarchy in terms of skin colour; ideas about "too black" or "too light".
So while yes, we may see more African American models, actors etc how often do you see models with the darkest of skin? Quite rarely honestly, still being "too dark" is not beautiful. I think these ideals do reflect the white privilege idea; black and latina models are usually 'closer' to the white ideal of beauty (ie. straight hair, perhaps lightened, less "racialized" features, etc)